Huaraz Travel Guide - Huaraz Reviews and Vacations

ALPAMAYO (5947M.)-QUITARAJU (6040 m.)

GALERY PHOTO

Climbing Grade : Advanced Intermediate

Considered the most beautiful Mountain of the World, It was declared in 1966 in Munich. Its almost perfect pyramidal form, its altitude and its huge make a spectacular climb.

Enjoy with Colonia Adventures, this wonderful Expedition, that single is compared with climbing snowed in the Himalayas.

NOTE ON ITINERARY: As conditions on Alpamayo are variable from season to season, there is a chance that our scheduled route may be in an unfavorable state. Your trip leader will evaluate conditions and if unsatisfactory we will climb one of many other outstanding peaks in the Cordillera Blanca.

Moderate

Departure Everyday

Price per person

$. 565.00

RESERVATION

ITINERARY

Day 1 -

We leave from Lima to Huaraz at 5am. After 3 hours we stop for eat breakfast on the way. After an 9-10 hour bay private bus ride from Lima, we arrive in the town of Huaraz, the bustling economic center of the Cordillera Blanca. We spend the next nights in the small Hotel. The accommodations is comfortable. Near the hotel there is a nicer restaurant, near of the central City and Andean Markets. Hostel Colonia

Day 2 -

C Continental breakfast in the Hotel. Acclimatization Day Hiking to Churup Lake or Lagoon 69 (4400 m.a.s.l).

Day 3 -

Today we leave Huaraz and drive down the river valley till we turn east and drive up to the town of Pashpa. Here we load our equipment on donkeys and begin our 4 hours hike into the upper Ishinca valley. The trek leads through nice mountain flora with quenoal (polylepys sp) forests interspersed on the hillsides. We set up our tents at around 4300m, which serves us as our Base Camp.

Day 4 -

Today we put in an easy day with some hiking around the morrein camp to get know this broad and high mountain valley.

Day 5 -

At night we tackle our peak Ishinca, which has a height of 5530m. Although it is a little bit higher than Urus. Our aim is to be early on top to enjoy the sunrise and the great views to the other peaks. Afterwards we descend and relax around the Base camp

Day 6 -

We hike out of the valley and drive back toColonia Hostel in Huaraz .

Day 7 -

Rest and relax in Huaraz

Day 8 -

Drive to Cashapampa, the trailhead. We'll meet our burros, burro driver and team cook here. Climbers will be allowed one burro each for personal gear. After we saddle up the burros we'll start heading up a rocky, steep valley. It will take approximately four hours of walking with light daypacks to get to camp in llamacorral at 12,000 feet. This day will be a full one ending with dinner in the dark.

Day 9 -

A fairly short day, about 4 hours with daypacks. Basecamp is made at 14,000 feet in a valley at the base of Alpamayo on the opposite side of the route. Basecamp is scenic, with greenery, running water and outhouses. Maybe even a visit from the local cowherd. The cook will stay here and wait for the group when it heads up higher, at the same time watching over cached gear that will be left behind.

Day 10 -

Depending on weather and acclimatization the next day can either be a rest day (recommended) or a carry day to 16,000 feet. The climb to 16,000 is short but steep. The route quickly ascends out of the green and into the alpine. Most of the climb is on steep terminal moraine with a few sections of easy rock. Generally just steep walking. The 16,000-foot camp is on rock at the base of the glacier. The group will travel as light as possible due to the steepness of the hike.

Day 11 -

Carry/Fix/Rest. The group will carry a load to the high col between Alpamayo and it's sister peak, Quitaraju. The guides will fix ropes in advance of the group on one steep section. One fixed rope and two belayed sections are normal in order to reach the col.

Day 12 -

Summit day. The climb starts with a reasonably steep glacier to the bergschrund. Upon crossing the bergschrund it is about 6 - 200 foot pitches to the top. The climbing is simply amazing. The route is on a huge, shady face with good exposure. The climbing ranges from about 45 to 70 degree ice and snow, rated Alpine Ice III in normal conditions. Most of the pitches involve using the tools in piolet traction and pied troisieme for the crampons. V-treads or picket anchors will be used to rappel the climb.

Day 13 -

Rest day in col camp

Day 14 -

Summit to Quitaraju peak. Back to Col camp

Day 15 -

Back down from col camp to Base camp.

Day 16 -

We make an early morning departure on our hike out. Again, with our heavy gear on burros we are able to enjoy the trek back to Cashapampa carrying only daypacks. Normally we arrive out at the road in early afternoon and head back to Huaraz for a hot shower and a celebratory dinner.

Day 17 -

Shopping day in Huaraz.

Day 18 -

Depart for Lima with a private car. Still see you soon..

PRICE INCLUDES

Lima transfers all land transport involved in the itinerary, hotel accommodation in Huaraz on a Bed and Breakfast basis. Once on trek, a full service, including food and all equipment (excluding personal equipment) is included in the trek price.

Four scheduled hotel nights
Food while on the mountain
Park Fees
Group climbing and cooking gear
Scheduled restaurant meals
Pack animals and porters for group gear
Ground transportation from Lima and return and while in the mountains

PRICE DOES NOT INCLUDE

Travel insurance, meals other than breakfasts when staying in hotels in Lima and Huaraz, sleeping bags, personal trekking gear. Tips for trek staff, Lima Airport departure tax, miscellaneous personal expenses – beer, tips, souvenirs etc...

• Airfare
• Personal equipment
• Tips.
• Alcoholic beverages
• Unscheduled hotel nights and restaurant meals
• Trip and medical/evacuation insurance
• Items of a personal nature; phone calls, laundry, room service and so forth

CLIMBING GEAR

Alpine climbing harness Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing (e.g. Mammut Alpine Light, Black Diamond Alpine Bod w/gear loops)
2 Locking carabiners Large, pear-shaped carabiner is best. screw gate type, no Autolocking (e.g. Kong HMS, Petzl Attache or William)
3 Regular carabiners (e.g. Mammut Standard Wiregate or BD Hot Wire are recommended)
Belay device (e.g. Black Diamond ATC)
Ice axe w/leash Lightweight (e.g. Grivel Air Tech, Black Diamond Raven, or Charlet Moser Snowalker) Under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”- 6’2” use 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
Plastic mountaineering boots (e.g. Koflach Arctis Expedition or Scarpa Inverno) Make sure the boots have a new stock liner or an alveolite liner
1 Pair gaiters or super-gaiters Super gaiters will provide more warmth and are recommended. The Savage gaiter by Climb High is a good choice.
Crampons, anti-ball plate, and repair kit Must be fit to plastic boots prior to trip, new-matic type recommended, include a mandatory simple repair kit (e.g. Grivel G12 [new matic or classic], Black Diamond Contact Strap, or Charlet Moser VASAK Flexlock)
Climbing helmet Adjustable, should fit with hat on
Perlon cord 30 feet of 6-millimeter perlon cord for prussik material; do not cut prior to trip!
Adjustable trekking pole

UPPER BODY

Polypropylene T-shirt
2 Long sleeve polypropylene shirt Lightweight, light colored for sunny days
Sports bras Two, synthetic, no cotton!
Soft Shell (e.g. Mammut New Age, Marmot Dri-Clime Wind Shirt, Patagonia Stretch Zephur or Krushell Jacket, R2 pullover acceptable)
Hard shell jacket with hood Waterproof and breathable. Gore-Tex or equivalent is best, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers. (e.g. Mammut Motion XCR or equivalent)
Expedition down parka w/hood This is probably your most important piece of clothing! It is important that your jacket have an insulated hood.
2 Pair liner gloves Thin wool or polypropylene
1 Pair medium weight fleece gloves (Windstopper preferred)
1 Pair warm gloves fleece or wool
Shell gloves or mitts Gore-Tex, with textured rubber palms and taped seams. Nylon shells will not keep your hands dry (Check out OR)
Warm hat Wool or synthetic
Balaclava
Shade hat or baseball cap
Neck warmer (Optional)

Your head needs to be completely covered during cold conditions. Any area of skin exposed on a cold, windy day is at risk of cold injury. Wind Stopper hats or balaclavas are a great choice.