Climbing Chopicalqui Mountain

Climbing Chopicalqui (6354m/2841ft) – 5 Days / 4 Nights

Duration: 05 days -04 nights
Start: Junction of Chopicalqui
Finish: Junction of Chopicalqui
Maximal elevation: 6354 masl
Highest Camp Site: 5500 masl
Season recommended: May to July
Difficulty: Fairly hard (=PD+/AD-)
Description:Climbing Chopicalqui Mountain 1

Chopicalqui is a mountain located immediately behind Peru’s highest mountain, Huascaran 6768, and the Huandoy mountains. Chopicalqui may be a little lower than those giant peaks but it is still a serious climb at an elevation of 6350m. and requires a great deal of technical ability. To scale Chopicalqui it is necessary to have experience climbing on snow and using ice axe, crampons and rope.
Glacier conditions change and what was an easy walk across a glacier one year may be a difficult passage through crevasses for the next season. What does not change however are the superb views of the two Huascaran peaks, the Huandoy group, and Chacraraju that can be enjoyed from the summit!
Before attempting Chopicalqui we suggest that you should trek for a minimum of 6 days and have climbed a 5000m peak to ensure a good acclimatization and fitness.

ITINERARY
Day 01: Huaraz – Llanganuco –Chopicalqui Base Camp (4200m/13776ft)

After the breakfast in the Hotel we will aboard the private bus to go along the Callejón de Huaylas in the north side of Huaraz, after driving for 2 hours aprox we will register in the National Parks Control, passing the Llanganuco lake Chinancocha and Orconcocha, where we will have Lunch, then in the early afternoon we will continue going up to the Ancush Valley between Huascarán and Chopicalqui, we will arrive to the Base Camp around 2pm. overnight camping at (4200m/13776ft).

Day 02: Base Camp – Moraine Camp (4700m/15416ft)Climbing Chopicalqui Mountain 2

After the breakfast in the Base Camp we will hike up to the Moraine Camp for about 4 hours, during this hike we will enjoy the splendid view in the north site like Pisco, Huandoys and Chacraraju peaks, lunch along the way, after arrive to the camp in the afternnon we will check our climbing equipments for the next day, dinner and overnight Camping at (4700m/15416ft).

Day 03: Moraine Camp – Camp 1 of Chopicalqui (5500m/18040ft)

After the breakfast we will climb up for about 40 minutes over the rocky paths to get the glacier, where we will put our climbing gears to start climbing for about 3 hours to the Camp 1, where we will enjoy the splendid views of nice peaks like Chacraraju, Huandos, etc, overnight over the glacier at (5500m/18040ft).

Day 04: Camp 1 – Climb up Chopicalqui – Moraine Camp (4700m/15416ft)

This day will be a little hard to climb, we will leave at 3:00am in the morning after breakfast, climbing for about 4 to 5 hours will get the summit (6354m/2841ft), then after enjoy the views for few minutes will come back to the Camp 1, where the cook will be waiting with hot water to drink, then we will continue go down to Moraine Camp for about 2 hours more, arriving around 4:00pm, Overnight Camping at (4700m/15416ft).

Day 05: Moraine Camp – Base Camp – Huaraz

After the last breakfast in the Moraine Camp of Chopicalqui, we will descend to the Base Camp for about 1 hour half, continue go down to the highway called Curva de Chopicalqui, where our transfer will be waiting for us, from here to Yungay will take 2 hours, along this travel we will pass the Llanganuco lake and then we will arrive the of Huascaran National Park Control, where we will registering whit our passport, then we will continue go down to Yungay, after this we will continue traveling along the Callejon de Huaylas to Huaraz for about 1 hour more. Arriving to Huaraz around 17:00hours approximately. Transfer to the Hotel.

END OUR SERVICES

PRICE INCLUDES

Lima transfers all land transport involved in the itinerary, hotel accommodation in Huaraz on a Bed and Breakfast basis. Once on expedition, a full service, including food and all equipment (excluding personal equipment) is included in the climbing price.
•Food while on the mountain
•Park Fees
•Group climbing and cooking gear
•Pack animals and porters for group gear
•Ground transportation from Lima and return and while in the mountains
•Mountain Guide UIAGM
•Entrance fees to National Park.

PRICE DOES NOT INCLUDE

Travel insurance, meals other than breakfasts when staying in hotels in Lima and Huaraz, sleeping bags, personal trekking gear. Tips for trek staff, Lima Airport departure tax, miscellaneous personal expenses – beer, tips, souvenirs etc…

• Airfare
• Personal equipment
• Tips.
• Alcoholic beverages
• Unscheduled hotel nights and restaurant meals
• Trip and medical/evacuation insurance
• Items of a personal nature; phone calls, laundry, room service and so forth

CLIMBING GEAR

•Alpine climbing harness Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing (e.g. Mammut Alpine Light, Black Diamond Alpine Bod w/gear loops)
•2 Locking carabiners Large, pear-shaped carabiner is best. screw gate type, no Autolocking (e.g. Kong HMS, Petzl Attache or William)
•3 Regular carabiners (e.g. Mammut Standard Wiregate or BD Hot Wire are recommended)
•Belay device (e.g. Black Diamond ATC)
•Ice axe w/leash Lightweight (e.g. Grivel Air Tech, Black Diamond Raven, or Charlet Moser Snowalker) Under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”- 6’2” use 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
•Plastic mountaineering boots (e.g. Koflach Arctis Expedition or Scarpa Inverno) Make sure the boots have a new stock liner or an alveolite liner
•1 Pair gaiters or super-gaiters Super gaiters will provide more warmth and are recommended. The Savage gaiter by Climb High is a good choice.
•Crampons, anti-ball plate, and repair kit Must be fit to plastic boots prior to trip, new-matic type recommended, include a mandatory simple repair kit (e.g. Grivel G12 [new matic or classic], Black Diamond Contact Strap, or Charlet Moser VASAK Flexlock)
•Climbing helmet Adjustable, should fit with hat on
•Perlon cord 30 feet of 6-millimeter perlon cord for prussik material; do not cut prior to trip!
•Adjustable trekking pole

UPPER BODY

•Polypropylene T-shirt

•2 Long sleeve polypropylene shirt Lightweight, light colored for sunny days

•Sports bras Two, synthetic, no cotton!

•Soft Shell (e.g. Mammut New Age, Marmot Dri-Clime Wind Shirt, Patagonia Stretch Zephur or Krushell Jacket, R2 pullover acceptable)

•Hard shell jacket with hood Waterproof and breathable. Gore-Tex or equivalent is best, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers. (e.g. Mammut Motion XCR or equivalent)

•Expedition down parka w/hood This is probably your most important piece of clothing! It is important that your jacket have an insulated hood.

•2 Pair liner gloves Thin wool or polypropylene

•1 Pair medium weight fleece gloves (Windstopper preferred)

•1 Pair warm gloves fleece or wool

•Shell gloves or mitts Gore-Tex, with textured rubber palms and taped seams. Nylon shells will not keep your hands dry (Check out OR)

•Warm hat Wool or synthetic

•Balaclava

•Shade hat or baseball cap

•Neck warmer (Optional)

Your head needs to be completely covered during cold conditions. Any area of skin exposed on a cold, windy day is at risk of cold injury. Wind Stopper hats or balaclavas are a great choice.

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