Climbing Huascaran south face (6768 masl)
Duration: 06 days -05 nights
Maximal elevation: 6768 masl
Highest Camp Site: 5950 masl
Season recommended: May to July
Difficulty:Fairly hard (=PD+/AD-)
Huascaran-Sur (6768masl) it is Peru’s highest peak and one of the most imposing summits in the world. It offers a challenging ascent requiring intermediate level alpine skills, and an unusual opportunity for climbers who want to make an ascent to a very high altitude. Before attempting Huascaran people should have trekked 6 days minimum and have climbed a 5000 peak for a good acclimatization and fitness.
Together with Chopicalqui, Huascaran Sur and Norte form the Huascaran massif. Huascaran Sur is the highest mountain in the Cordillera Blanca as well as in the whole of Peru and is consequently quite a popular clime.
Day 01: Huaraz- Musho and Huascaran Base Camp (3800).
After breakfast in the hotel we will start at 7:00am approximately, along the Callejon de Huaylas to Mancos, from here we will travel to the East side to Musho, arriving to Musho after 1 hour trip, the Donkey Driver will be waiting for us in Musho to transport our climbing equipments to Base Camp of Huascaran (3800m/12464ft), after hiking up for about 4 or 5 hours we will arriving to the Base Camp and overnight Camping.
Day 02: Base Camp – Camp 1
After the breakfast in the Base Camp we will start hiking up to the moraine camp, sometimes rock climbing for about 3 hours to get the glacier, from here we will start climbing the glacier for about 1 hour to the Camp 1 at (5000m/16400ft), from here we will have a splendid views to see different mountains ours around, overnight Camping over the glacier.
Today, we will start at 4:00am to climb to the Camp 2, for about 5 hours approximately, in case there are other climbers, we will have to pass a little fast the part of the Channel, this part is avalanche zone, arriving to Camp 2 around 9:00am, overnight camping over the glacier at (5950m/19516ft).
Day 04: Climb up Huascaran summit – camp 2
After the breakfast in the Camp 2 we will start climbing at 3:00am, along the this route we will enjoy the nice views of different mountains ours around and will enjoy the sunrise in the Cordillera Blanca, arriving to the Summit (6768m/22199ft) around 10:00am, in the summit we will enjoy the white Mountain Range and take pictures, after stay few minutes we will start go down to the Camp 2 for about 4 hours approximately, arriving to the Camp 2 around 3 or 4:00pm, overnight camping at (5950m/19516ft).
Day 05: Camp 2 – down to the Base Camp
Early in the morning we will start go down to the Base Camp, after go down 2 hours will be arriving to the Moraine Camp, where we will have lunch, after lunch we will continue go down to the Base Camp for about 2 hours more, arriving around 3:00pm, overnight in the Base Camp at (3800m/12464ft).
Late in the morning we will go down hill to Musho for about 3 hours half approximately. Where our private transport will be waiting for us to transport to Huaraz; arriving to Huaraz around 16:00hours and transfer to the hotel, overnight in the Hotel in Huaraz.
END OUR SERVICES
Lima transfers all land transport involved in the itinerary, hotel accommodation in Huaraz on a Bed and Breakfast basis. Once on trek, a full service, including food and all equipment (excluding personal equipment) is included in the trek price.
•Four scheduled hotel nights
•Food while on the mountain
•Group climbing and cooking gear
•Scheduled restaurant meals
•Pack animals and porters for group gear
•Ground transportation from Lima and return and while in the mountains
PRICE DOES NOT INCLUDE
Travel insurance, meals other than breakfasts when staying in hotels in Lima and Huaraz, sleeping bags, personal trekking gear. Tips for trek staff, Lima Airport departure tax, miscellaneous personal expenses – beer, tips, souvenirs etc…
• Personal equipment
• Alcoholic beverages
• Unscheduled hotel nights and restaurant meals
• Trip and medical/evacuation insurance
• Items of a personal nature; phone calls, laundry, room service and so forth
•Alpine climbing harness Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing (e.g. Mammut Alpine Light, Black Diamond Alpine Bod w/gear loops)
•2 Locking carabiners Large, pear-shaped carabiner is best. screw gate type, no Autolocking (e.g. Kong HMS, Petzl Attache or William)
•3 Regular carabiners (e.g. Mammut Standard Wiregate or BD Hot Wire are recommended)
•Belay device (e.g. Black Diamond ATC)
•Ice axe w/leash Lightweight (e.g. Grivel Air Tech, Black Diamond Raven, or Charlet Moser Snowalker) Under 5’7” use 60cm
, 5’7”- 6’2” use 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
•Plastic mountaineering boots (e.g. Koflach Arctis Expedition or Scarpa Inverno) Make sure the boots have a new stock liner or an alveolite liner
•1 Pair gaiters or super-gaiters Super gaiters will provide more warmth and are recommended. The Savage gaiter by Climb High is a good choice.
•Crampons, anti-ball plate, and repair kit Must be fit to plastic boots prior to trip, new-matic type recommended, include a mandatory simple repair kit (e.g. Grivel G12 [new matic or classic], Black Diamond Contact Strap, or Charlet Moser VASAK Flexlock)
•Climbing helmet Adjustable, should fit with hat on
•Perlon cord 30 feet of 6-millimeter perlon cord for prussik material; do not cut prior to trip!
•Adjustable trekking pole
•2 Long sleeve polypropylene shirt Lightweight, light colored for sunny days
•Sports bras Two, synthetic, no cotton!
•Soft Shell (e.g. Mammut New Age, Marmot Dri-Clime Wind Shirt, Patagonia Stretch Zephur or Krushell Jacket, R2 pullover acceptable)
•Hard shell jacket with hood Waterproof and breathable. Gore-Tex or equivalent is best, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers. (e.g. Mammut Motion XCR or equivalent)
•Expedition down parka w/hood This is probably your most important piece of clothing! It is important that your jacket have an insulated hood.
•2 Pair liner gloves Thin wool or polypropylene
•1 Pair medium weight fleece gloves (Windstopper preferred)
•1 Pair warm gloves fleece or wool
•Shell gloves or mitts Gore-Tex, with textured rubber palms and taped seams. Nylon shells will not keep your hands dry (Check out OR)
•Warm hat Wool or synthetic
•Shade hat or baseball cap
•Neck warmer (Optional)
Your head needs to be completely covered during cold conditions. Any area of skin exposed on a cold, windy day is at risk of cold injury. Wind Stopper hats or balaclavas are a great choice.