Climbing Pisco – Chopicalqui Mountains

Climbing Pisco (5752 m)- Chopicalqui (6354 m)Mountains

Duration:11 Days -10Nights
Start: Cebollapampa
Finish: Chopicalqui Junction
Maximal elevation: 6354 masl
Highest Camp Site: 5200 masl
Season recommended: May to August
Difficulty: Climbing Grade: Advanced Intermediate
piscochopicalquiclimbDescription:

Pisco and Chopicalqui offer a great combined climbing objective. Pisco Oeste, situated in the heart of the Cordillera Blanca, is an excellent choice as a preparatory climb for Chopicalqui. The 18,867 foot high summit is high enough to elicit a good acclimatization response from our bodies, the ascent of this beautiful peak also offers a chance to be sure we are prepared for Chopicalqui.
At 20,817 feet, Chopicalqui is a higher summit and technically much more demanding. On Chopicalqui we will place two camps above Base Camp. On our summit day we will climb a spectacular snow and ice ridge with snow and ice up to 60°.

ITINERARY
Day 01:Lima-Huaraz

We leave from Lima to Huaraz at 5am. After 3 hours we stop for eat breakfast on the way. After an 9-10 hour bay private bus ride from Lima, we arrive in the town of Huaraz, the bustling economic center of the Cordillera Blanca. We spend the next nights in the nice and clean Hostel. The accommodations is comfortable. Near the hotel there is a nicer restaurant, near of the central City and Andean Markets.

Climbing Chopicalqui Mountain 1Day 02: Aclimatization Day- Churup

Laguna Churup day hike. In order to begin our acclimatization and to give ourselves a bit of a rest from traveling we take a short day hike to Laguna Churup. This azure colored glacial fed lake nestled under 18,017 foot Nevado Churup, is not far from Huaraz. At about 14,600′ in elevation, Laguna Churup is an excellent destination to help us begin the process of adapting our bodies to the demands of high altitude climbing.

Day 03: Huaraz-Cebollapampa-BC Pisco 4400 masl

After Breakfast taking care of last minute preparations we will drive 3 hours to Cebolla Pampa, Start our hiking 04 hours still our BC. This base camp elevation is about (4400 m.)

Day 04: Summit day back to BC Pisco

Our summit climb of Pisco follows the occasionally narrow West Ridge. Snow and a little ice lead directly to the top. Pisco is well known for its incredible views. This is largely because of the proximity of the neighboring peaks Huandoy and Chacraraju. We return to Base Camp.

Day 05: BC Pisco- BC Chopicalqui

We will hike out to the road, again with our gear on burros. We continue up the road for a very short way before heading off for the short walk to Chopicalqui Base Camp.

Climbing Chopicalqui Mountain 3Day 06:BC Chopicalqui- Morrein Camp

Leaving Base Camp we ascend moraine, arriving at Moraine Camp on ledges near the edge of the glacier.

Day 07: Morrein Camp Camp 01

We gain the glacier a short way above camp and climb about 1500 feet to our High Camp just below a high col between Chopicalqui and Huascarán.

Day 08: Summit Day- Morrein Camp.

On summit day we climb steeply above the col and follow the long summit ridge to the top. The climbing involves occasional belayed climbing on ice and snow up to 60°. Every year this route is a bit different. Occasionally some very steep climbing is required just below the summit. After our climb we’ll descend either back to High Camp, or perhaps down to Moraine Camp.

Day 09:Morrein Camp – Huaraz

We continue our descent, meating our van at the trailhead and return to Huaraz.Dinner and party in our Base .

Day 10:In Huaraz

Shopping day in Huaraz

Day 11:Lima to Huaraz

Back to Lima .

END OUR SERVICES

PRICE INCLUDES

Lima transfers all land transport involved in the itinerary, hotel accommodation in Huaraz on a Bed and Breakfast basis. Once on trek, a full service, including food and all equipment (excluding personal equipment) is included in the trek price.
•Food while on the mountain
•Park Fees
•Group climbing and cooking gear
•Scheduled restaurant meals
•Pack animals and porters for group gear
•Ground transportation from Lima and return and while in the mountains

PRICE DOES NOT INCLUDE

Travel insurance, meals other than breakfasts when staying in hotels in Lima and Huaraz, sleeping bags, personal trekking gear. Tips for trek staff, Lima Airport departure tax, miscellaneous personal expenses – beer, tips, souvenirs etc…

• Airfare
• Personal equipment
• Tips.
• Alcoholic beverages
• Unscheduled hotel nights and restaurant meals
• Trip and medical/evacuation insurance
• Items of a personal nature; phone calls, laundry, room service and so forth

CLIMBING GEAR

•Alpine climbing harness Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing (e.g. Mammut Alpine Light, Black Diamond Alpine Bod w/gear loops)
•2 Locking carabiners Large, pear-shaped carabiner is best. screw gate type, no Autolocking (e.g. Kong HMS, Petzl Attache or William)
•3 Regular carabiners (e.g. Mammut Standard Wiregate or BD Hot Wire are recommended)
•Belay device (e.g. Black Diamond ATC)
•Ice axe w/leash Lightweight (e.g. Grivel Air Tech, Black Diamond Raven, or Charlet Moser Snowalker) Under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”- 6’2” use 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
•Plastic mountaineering boots (e.g. Koflach Arctis Expedition or Scarpa Inverno) Make sure the boots have a new stock liner or an alveolite liner
•1 Pair gaiters or super-gaiters Super gaiters will provide more warmth and are recommended. The Savage gaiter by Climb High is a good choice.
•Crampons, anti-ball plate, and repair kit Must be fit to plastic boots prior to trip, new-matic type recommended, include a mandatory simple repair kit (e.g. Grivel G12 [new matic or classic], Black Diamond Contact Strap, or Charlet Moser VASAK Flexlock)
•Climbing helmet Adjustable, should fit with hat on
•Perlon cord 30 feet of 6-millimeter perlon cord for prussik material; do not cut prior to trip!
•Adjustable trekking pole

UPPER BODY

•Polypropylene T-shirt

•2 Long sleeve polypropylene shirt Lightweight, light colored for sunny days

•Sports bras Two, synthetic, no cotton!

•Soft Shell (e.g. Mammut New Age, Marmot Dri-Clime Wind Shirt, Patagonia Stretch Zephur or Krushell Jacket, R2 pullover acceptable)

•Hard shell jacket with hood Waterproof and breathable. Gore-Tex or equivalent is best, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers. (e.g. Mammut Motion XCR or equivalent)

•Expedition down parka w/hood This is probably your most important piece of clothing! It is important that your jacket have an insulated hood.

•2 Pair liner gloves Thin wool or polypropylene

•1 Pair medium weight fleece gloves (Windstopper preferred)

•1 Pair warm gloves fleece or wool

•Shell gloves or mitts Gore-Tex, with textured rubber palms and taped seams. Nylon shells will not keep your hands dry (Check out OR)

•Warm hat Wool or synthetic

•Balaclava

•Shade hat or baseball cap

•Neck warmer (Optional)

Your head needs to be completely covered during cold conditions. Any area of skin exposed on a cold, windy day is at risk of cold injury. Wind Stopper hats or balaclavas are a great choice.

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