Climbing Urus (5497m/18030ft) – 3 Days / 2 Nights
Duration:3 Days -2 Nights
Maximal elevation: 5497 masl
Highest Camp Site:4300 masl
Season recommended: May to August
Difficulty: Moderate (M)
Urus is an acclimatization mountain to prepare for the higher peaks in the Cordillera Blanca. It’s normally considered a trekking peak more than a climbing one, but weather conditions can make this ‘easy’ summit far from a sure bet. Crevasses are not a concern as the moutain only has a small snow cap. The normal route is bordering the small glacier for a slope of snow not complicated. The interest in this peak is for its location with great views and the height over the 5000 meters (5420 meters is a very good reward). The Quebrada Ishinca is one of the closer to Huaraz and from its base camp you can climb two 5000 meters peak
Day 01:Huaraz – Pashpa – Ishinca Base Camp (4300m/14104ft)
After the breakfast in the Hotel in Huaraz, at 07:30hours we will go to pick up you and start drive to the North side of Huaraz toPaltay, from there we will drive up to Pashpa at (3670m/12037ft), it will takes 1 hours drive, Pashpa is the start hike point, where our donkeys and donkey driver will be waiting to transport our logistics, from Pashpa to Ishinca takes 6 hours hike, there is the Huascaran National Park’s control, where you will register with your passport, lunch on the way, arriving to the base camp of Ishinca around 15 hours. Then we will check our climbing equipment for the next day, overnight Camping at (4300m/14104ft).
Day 02: Base Camp – Summit Urus (5497m/18030ft) – Base Camp
Start hiking around 4:00am after the breakfast, arriving to the glacier after 2 hours climb up, then we will start climbing up over the glacier for about 3 hours to get the summit (5497m/18030ft), where we will enjoy the nice view for some minutes, then we will start to descend for about 1 hour half to the Moraine camp, then we will continue to the Base Camp arriving for about 2 hours more, arriving to the Base Camp around 15:00hours, overnight camping in the Base Camp.
Day 03: Base Camp – Pashpa – Huaraz
After the breakfast in the Camp 1 at 03:00hours will be start to climb up to the Summit for about 5 hours to get the summit approximately, 3 hours before we will get a 60meters wall, where we will use fixed rope or free climbing by Guide help, arriving to the top at (6035m/19794ft) we will enjoy the splendid views of different peaks around like: Huascaran, Santa Cruz, Ranrapalca, etc. after that immediately will return to the Camp 1, then we will pick up our equipments ant continue go down to Base Camp, arriving around 16:00hours approximately, overnight in the Base Camp.
Day 04: Base Camp – back to Huaraz
This day we will back to Huaraz after the breakfast around 08:00hours, down hill to Pashpa, before you will register in the Huascaran National Park your return, it will takes 3 hours half to Pashpa where our private transfer will be waiting to transport to Huaraz and then transfer to your hotel, lunch on the way, arriving to Huaraz around 16:00 hours.
END OUR SERVICES
Lima transfers all land transport involved in the itinerary, hotel accommodation in Huaraz on a Bed and Breakfast basis. Once on trek, a full service, including food and all equipment (excluding personal equipment) is included in the trek price.
•Food while on the mountain
•Group climbing and cooking gear
•Scheduled restaurant meals
•Pack animals and porters for group gear
•Ground transportation from Lima and return and while in the mountains
PRICE DOES NOT INCLUDE
Travel insurance, meals other than breakfasts when staying in hotels in Lima and Huaraz, sleeping bags, personal trekking gear. Tips for trek staff, Lima Airport departure tax, miscellaneous personal expenses – beer, tips, souvenirs etc…
• Personal equipment
• Alcoholic beverages
• Unscheduled hotel nights and restaurant meals
• Trip and medical/evacuation insurance
• Items of a personal nature; phone calls, laundry, room service and so forth
•Alpine climbing harness Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing (e.g. Mammut Alpine Light, Black Diamond Alpine Bod w/gear loops)
•2 Locking carabiners Large, pear-shaped carabiner is best. screw gate type, no Autolocking (e.g. Kong HMS, Petzl Attache or William)
•3 Regular carabiners (e.g. Mammut Standard Wiregate or BD Hot Wire are recommended)
•Belay device (e.g. Black Diamond ATC)
•Ice axe w/leash Lightweight (e.g. Grivel Air Tech, Black Diamond Raven, or Charlet Moser Snowalker) Under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”- 6’2” use 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
•Plastic mountaineering boots (e.g. Koflach Arctis Expedition or Scarpa Inverno) Make sure the boots have a new stock liner or an alveolite liner
•1 Pair gaiters or super-gaiters Super gaiters will provide more warmth and are recommended. The Savage gaiter by Climb High is a good choice.
•Crampons, anti-ball plate, and repair kit Must be fit to plastic boots prior to trip, new-matic type recommended, include a mandatory simple repair kit (e.g. Grivel G12 [new matic or classic], Black Diamond Contact Strap, or Charlet Moser VASAK Flexlock)
•Climbing helmet Adjustable, should fit with hat on
•Perlon cord 30 feet of 6-millimeter perlon cord for prussik material; do not cut prior to trip!
•Adjustable trekking pole
•2 Long sleeve polypropylene shirt Lightweight, light colored for sunny days
•Sports bras Two, synthetic, no cotton!
•Soft Shell (e.g. Mammut New Age, Marmot Dri-Clime Wind Shirt, Patagonia Stretch Zephur or Krushell Jacket, R2 pullover acceptable)
•Hard shell jacket with hood Waterproof and breathable. Gore-Tex or equivalent is best, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers. (e.g. Mammut Motion XCR or equivalent)
•Expedition down parka w/hood This is probably your most important piece of clothing! It is important that your jacket have an insulated hood.
•2 Pair liner gloves Thin wool or polypropylene
•1 Pair medium weight fleece gloves (Windstopper preferred)
•1 Pair warm gloves fleece or wool
•Shell gloves or mitts Gore-Tex, with textured rubber palms and taped seams. Nylon shells will not keep your hands dry (Check out OR)
•Warm hat Wool or synthetic
•Shade hat or baseball cap
•Neck warmer (Optional)
Your head needs to be completely covered during cold conditions. Any area of skin exposed on a cold, windy day is at risk of cold injury. Wind Stopper hats or balaclavas are a great choice.