Climbing Quitaraju Massif

Climbing Quitaraju Massif (6040 masl)

Duration: 07 days – 06 nights
Start: Cashapampa
Finish: Cashapampa
Maximal elevation: 6040 masl
Highest Camp Site:5450 masl
Season recommended: May to August
Difficulty:Hard (=AD+)


Quitaraju is a really nice mountain with great views of its south face, the Alpamayo, Artesonraju, Huascaran and Chopicalqui. To climb this mountain uses the same access route as Alpamayo, since it is located next to it. However, the 800m vertical ice wall (60-80 °) is more technical, and the descent follows a different route.


Day 01: Huaraz – Cashapampa – LLamacorral

We drive three hours to Cashapampa enjoying a pictures drive along the Callejon de Huaylas, passing through Carhuaz, Yungay and Caraz. From Cashapampa, we start the trek steeply then levels out, climbing steadily along Santa Cruz Valley on the true right bank of the river. After two hours the trail becomes gentler, making the walking easier and after two and a half hours, the extensive meadow area of LLamacoral is reached; this is the first night’s camp site (3 750masl).
We walk approximately 6 hours.

Day 02: LLamacorral – Alpamayo Base Camp

We will continue our trip along the floor of the valley, passing two beautiful lakes nestled below towering peaks of the White Mountain Range that sit in commanding position above Santa Cruz Valley. When we get the bottom of Santa Cruz Valley we start ascending in zigzag path toward to the Alpamayo Base Camp. We spend the night at 4 300masl. Walk some 5 hours.

Day 03: Alpamayo Base Camp – Moraine Camp

From base camp, the route takes a moraine ridge and crosses rock slabs across the edge of the glacier to reach an area of tent platforms. On the afternoon we check our climbing equipments for the next day. We spend the night at 4 600masl. Walk about 4 hours.

Day 04:Moraine Camp – Camp 01

The route above moraine camp continues over ice and moraine before a 300-metre snow couloirs leads to the Col between Alpamayo and nearby Quitaraju. This section can sometimes be the most technical and difficult part of the route. After gaining the col, there is a short descent to reach high camp. On the afternoon we have a briefing about the attack with our Mountain Guide and preparation of your pack for tomorrow. Overnight at 5 300masl. The journey is about 4 hours

Day 05:Summit Day – Camp 01

We will start climbing using head lamps, and after 1 hour approximately walking in the snow we will get the base of the wall and start climbing the north ridge, the inclination is approximately 75º, and after 2 or 3 hours climbing we will succeed the summit, where we will have impressionist white mountain peaks in the east side, we will appreciate the pyramid of the most beautiful mountain in the world of Alpamayo. And after to enjoy for a few minutes we will come dawn rappelling with the help of our guide, arriving to the camp place at 11 or 12 am and just for lunch, and rest in the afternoon, overnight in the glacier at 5 450masl. 9 to 10 hours for the day.

Day 06: Camp 01 – Alpamayo Base Camp

After a good breakfast we take the same route to go back to the base camp.

Day 07: Alpamayo Base Camp – Cashapampa – Huaraz

Trek downhill to Cashapampa where the vehicle waits for us to go back to Huaraz. We are walking approximately 6 hours.


Lima transfers all land transport involved in the itinerary, hotel accommodation in Huaraz on a Bed and Breakfast basis. Once on trek, a full service, including food and all equipment (excluding personal equipment) is included in the trek price.
•Four scheduled hotel nights
•Food while on the mountain
•Park Fees
•Group climbing and cooking gear
•Scheduled restaurant meals
•Pack animals and porters for group gear
•Ground transportation from Lima and return and while in the mountains


Travel insurance, meals other than breakfasts when staying in hotels in Lima and Huaraz, sleeping bags, personal trekking gear. Tips for trek staff, Lima Airport departure tax, miscellaneous personal expenses – beer, tips, souvenirs etc…

• Airfare
• Personal equipment
• Tips.
• Alcoholic beverages
• Unscheduled hotel nights and restaurant meals
• Trip and medical/evacuation insurance
• Items of a personal nature; phone calls, laundry, room service and so forth


•Alpine climbing harness Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing (e.g. Mammut Alpine Light, Black Diamond Alpine Bod w/gear loops)
•2 Locking carabiners Large, pear-shaped carabiner is best. screw gate type, no Autolocking (e.g. Kong HMS, Petzl Attache or William)
•3 Regular carabiners (e.g. Mammut Standard Wiregate or BD Hot Wire are recommended)
•Belay device (e.g. Black Diamond ATC)
•Ice axe w/leash Lightweight (e.g. Grivel Air Tech, Black Diamond Raven, or Charlet Moser Snowalker) Under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”- 6’2” use 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
•Plastic mountaineering boots (e.g. Koflach Arctis Expedition or Scarpa Inverno) Make sure the boots have a new stock liner or an alveolite liner
•1 Pair gaiters or super-gaiters Super gaiters will provide more warmth and are recommended. The Savage gaiter by Climb High is a good choice.
•Crampons, anti-ball plate, and repair kit Must be fit to plastic boots prior to trip, new-matic type recommended, include a mandatory simple repair kit (e.g. Grivel G12 [new matic or classic], Black Diamond Contact Strap, or Charlet Moser VASAK Flexlock)
•Climbing helmet Adjustable, should fit with hat on
•Perlon cord 30 feet of 6-millimeter perlon cord for prussik material; do not cut prior to trip!
•Adjustable trekking pole


•Polypropylene T-shirt

•2 Long sleeve polypropylene shirt Lightweight, light colored for sunny days

•Sports bras Two, synthetic, no cotton!

•Soft Shell (e.g. Mammut New Age, Marmot Dri-Clime Wind Shirt, Patagonia Stretch Zephur or Krushell Jacket, R2 pullover acceptable)

•Hard shell jacket with hood Waterproof and breathable. Gore-Tex or equivalent is best, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers. (e.g. Mammut Motion XCR or equivalent)

•Expedition down parka w/hood This is probably your most important piece of clothing! It is important that your jacket have an insulated hood.

•2 Pair liner gloves Thin wool or polypropylene

•1 Pair medium weight fleece gloves (Windstopper preferred)

•1 Pair warm gloves fleece or wool

•Shell gloves or mitts Gore-Tex, with textured rubber palms and taped seams. Nylon shells will not keep your hands dry (Check out OR)

•Warm hat Wool or synthetic


•Shade hat or baseball cap

•Neck warmer (Optional)

Your head needs to be completely covered during cold conditions. Any area of skin exposed on a cold, windy day is at risk of cold injury. Wind Stopper hats or balaclavas are a great choice.