Climbing Urus – Ishinca – Tocllaraju Mountains
Duration:11 Days – 10Nights
Finish: Chopicalqui Junction
Maximal elevation: 6354 masl
Highest Camp Site: 5200 masl
Season recommended: May to August
Difficulty:Climbing Grade: Advanced Intermediate
The expedition to the Ishinca Valley is perfect for those that are looking for their first experience at high altitude climbing and that have some basic mountaineering skills. From an idyllic central base camp surrounded by incredible peaks, turquoise lakes, and lupine covered meadows we have easy access to these three peaks located in one of the world’s finest mountaineering areas.
The strategic location of Base Camp, does possible that You, can enjoy easy climbing like technical a single place, optimizing therefore the use of material and logistical support for these ascensions, without a doubt some also becoming most competitive and economic for climbers
The peaks are so pointed and ice-clad, that it can be difficult to find an area where attractive summits are accessible to mountaineers who are anything less than expert climbers. The Ishinca, fortunately, is one such area.
Day 01:Huaraz – Pashpa village – Ishinca Base Camp
Transfer to the trail head Pashpa (3 670masl), where we will meet the donkey drivers. From this village we will walk up through Ishinca ravine among trees and bushes proper of this part of Cordillera Blanca, getting to base camp after four hours, where we`ll spend the first night at 4 350masl.
Urus Summit Day! Our first Andean start has you leaving camp by 4:00am. Work our way up the steep moraine to the toe of the glacier where we will put on crampons, harnesses, and rope up. Weave your way to the summit, usually arriving around 11am. Celebrate! Return down to base camp for a well-earned dinner and sleep!
Day 03:Rest day
Rest day.Exploring the place
Day 04:Base Camp – Ishinca Summit – Base Camp
Very early we leave from the camp site toward to Ishinca Lake (4 900m). Then we are climbing on the moraine to after pass to reach the final slope that go to the summit. Our aim is to be early on top to enjoy the sunrise and the great views to the other peaks. After a good break on the summit, we go back to the base camp. This journey is about 9 to 12 hours depending on fitness.
Day 05:Weather day or resting
Day 06:Base Camp – Camp 01 Tocllaraju
Taking your essentials, we will leave for the high glacier camp of our final mountain, Tocllaraju. It usually takes 6 hours to reach the camp at 5 000masl. Enjoy an unforgettable dinner while mesmerized by Tocllaraju impressive west face. We get to sleep early for the next day’s climb.
An early start today… wake up at 12:00 midnight and after a light breakfast depart for the summit by around 2:00am. We will work our way across the saddle and begin the classic assent up Toclla’s north ridge. Things get steeper as you climb, with two sections of 60-80 degree snow and/or ice. Return to high camp typically around 2:00pm and after a rest and some warm food; continue back down to base camp for dinner and sleep.
Day 08: Base Camp – Pashpa – Huaraz
We start the day walking down hill along the Ishinca valley arriving to the trail head Pashpa where we aboard the transport and come back to Huaraz. We walk approximately three hours.
END OUR SERVICES
Lima transfers all land transport involved in the itinerary, hotel accommodation in Huaraz on a Bed and Breakfast basis. Once on trek, a full service, including food and all equipment (excluding personal equipment) is included in the trek price.
•Food while on the mountain
•Group climbing and cooking gear
•Scheduled restaurant meals
•Pack animals and porters for group gear
•Ground transportation from Lima and return and while in the mountains
PRICE DOES NOT INCLUDE
Travel insurance, meals other than breakfasts when staying in hotels in Lima and Huaraz, sleeping bags, personal trekking gear. Tips for trek staff, Lima Airport departure tax, miscellaneous personal expenses – beer, tips, souvenirs etc…
• Personal equipment
• Alcoholic beverages
• Unscheduled hotel nights and restaurant meals
• Trip and medical/evacuation insurance
• Items of a personal nature; phone calls, laundry, room service and so forth
•Alpine climbing harness Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing (e.g. Mammut Alpine Light, Black Diamond Alpine Bod w/gear loops)
•2 Locking carabiners Large, pear-shaped carabiner is best. screw gate type, no Autolocking (e.g. Kong HMS, Petzl Attache or William)
•3 Regular carabiners (e.g. Mammut Standard Wiregate or BD Hot Wire are recommended)
•Belay device (e.g. Black Diamond ATC)
•Ice axe w/leash Lightweight (e.g. Grivel Air Tech, Black Diamond Raven, or Charlet Moser Snowalker) Under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”- 6’2” use 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
•Plastic mountaineering boots (e.g. Koflach Arctis Expedition or Scarpa Inverno) Make sure the boots have a new stock liner or an alveolite liner
•1 Pair gaiters or super-gaiters Super gaiters will provide more warmth and are recommended. The Savage gaiter by Climb High is a good choice.
•Crampons, anti-ball plate, and repair kit Must be fit to plastic boots prior to trip, new-matic type recommended, include a mandatory simple repair kit (e.g. Grivel G12 [new matic or classic], Black Diamond Contact Strap, or Charlet Moser VASAK Flexlock)
•Climbing helmet Adjustable, should fit with hat on
•Perlon cord 30 feet of 6-millimeter perlon cord for prussik material; do not cut prior to trip!
•Adjustable trekking pole
•2 Long sleeve polypropylene shirt Lightweight, light colored for sunny days
•Sports bras Two, synthetic, no cotton!
•Soft Shell (e.g. Mammut New Age, Marmot Dri-Clime Wind Shirt, Patagonia Stretch Zephur or Krushell Jacket, R2 pullover acceptable)
•Hard shell jacket with hood Waterproof and breathable. Gore-Tex or equivalent is best, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers. (e.g. Mammut Motion XCR or equivalent)
•Expedition down parka w/hood This is probably your most important piece of clothing! It is important that your jacket have an insulated hood.
•2 Pair liner gloves Thin wool or polypropylene
•1 Pair medium weight fleece gloves (Windstopper preferred)
•1 Pair warm gloves fleece or wool
•Shell gloves or mitts Gore-Tex, with textured rubber palms and taped seams. Nylon shells will not keep your hands dry (Check out OR)
•Warm hat Wool or synthetic
•Shade hat or baseball cap
•Neck warmer (Optional)
Your head needs to be completely covered during cold conditions. Any area of skin exposed on a cold, windy day is at risk of cold injury. Wind Stopper hats or balaclavas are a great choice.